Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
